Exploring the Dolomites: Gardena Grödnerhof
I spent a few days at Gardena Grödnerhof in Val Gardena. The hotel sits just above Ortisei, with the Dolomites rising steeply all around it.
Hiking in the Dolomites shaped the rhythm of each day. Trails begin almost directly from the hotel or nearby gondolas and quickly lead into forest paths, open meadows filled with flowers, and, on higher routes, snow-capped peaks. There is a lot of stopping along the way, not because the hiking is difficult, but because the landscape is constantly shifting and unfolding.
Paths wind through dense pine forest where the air is cool and sharply scented, before opening into wide alpine meadows scattered with an extraordinary variety of summer flowers. The region is home to well over 1,500 plant species, including orchids, gentians, alpine roses, and countless smaller blooms that change with altitude and exposure. Marmots appear across rocky slopes, pausing upright for a moment before darting back into the stone. Higher still, the scenery becomes more dramatic: snow-capped peaks remain visible even in summer, stretched along jagged ridgelines in every direction. Reaching a rifugio after a few hours on the trail becomes its own quiet milestone -sitting outside with a cold drink and a steaming plate of dumplings, stew, or pasta. The food is simple, grounding, and tastes all the better for the effort that precedes it.
Ortisei lies in South Tyrol, a region that was part of Austria until 1919, and traces of that history remain visible in its architecture and cultural identity. German, Italian, and Ladin are all spoken here Ladin being a Rhaeto-Romance language native to the Dolomite valleys and still used in everyday life. Together, they create a place that feels layered rather than singular.
Gardena Grödnerhof is a five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel in Ortisei, designed as a year-round base for both summer and winter in the Dolomites. The architecture and interiors combine traditional alpine character with a more contemporary sense of refinement, using natural wood, soft textures, and calm, muted tones throughout. Rooms are spacious and understated, many with balconies and large windows that frame the surrounding mountains, reinforcing a constant connection to the landscape outside. The hotel is structured around seasonal mountain life: in winter it functions as a base for skiing in the Dolomiti Superski area, while in summer it becomes a starting point for hiking routes that lead directly into the surrounding peaks and valleys.
The spa is a central feature of the hotel, designed as a place of recovery after time in the mountains. It includes indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and quiet relaxation areas, all oriented around stillness and restoration. The intention is a clear contrast between activity and rest: days spent hiking or skiing in the Dolomites followed by time in warmth and silence indoors, with the rhythm of the stay shaped by this movement between the two.
Dining at Anna Stuben is an intimate, highly refined experience, where the tasting menu unfolds with precision and a strong sense of place. Each course is built around seasonal Alpine ingredients and paired with wines from the region’s South Tyrolean vineyards. As the menu progresses, there is a growing sense of playfulness and detail in the final courses. Some plates arrive almost sculptural, including desserts shaped like pine cones, which mirror the surrounding forests in both form and idea.
Overall, Gardena Grödnerhof is an ideal summer or winter retreat for anyone looking for an active yet deeply relaxing stay in the Dolomites.
